Small-Batch Cold-Process Soap for Hand & Body
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Before I became a licensed aesthetician, I was in the business of making and selling artisan soap with unique scents and designs. I think this is where my appreciation for skincare must have begun. Back then, I didn’t have the depth of understanding which I do now.
So many homemade soap producers are focused on appearance and artistic expression. As my knowledge of ayurveda and holistic skincare and nutrition expanded, so did my belief in the sourcing of quality of ingredients. Not all “artisan soapers” believe there is any issue in using synthetic products, but as a licensed holistic skincare therapist, I believe that natural is frequently best and certainly worth every penny compared to the cheaper alternatives.
Pure coconut oil soap is extremely clarifying, albeit sometimes misinterpreted as abrasive to the skin. To get around this, adding more oil than is needed for the saponification process (also known as superfatting) will encourage the production of naturally occurring glycerin and helps the skin hold onto extra moisture. When making a pure coconut oil soap for the body, I recommend aiming for a superfat level between 20-30%. (Normal soap recipes with other oils normally do not exceed 10% without becoming heavy and leaving a lot of buildup or residue. Coconut oil soap is a special exception.)
Good to Know:
Should you choose essential oils or fragrant oils, and what is the difference?
Essential oils are naturally occuring oils which have been extracted from real plants or botanicals. Common extractions include Steam Distillation, Solvents, Maceration, Cold Press, Water Distillation, and more. the strength and quality of essential oils will vary between plant growth seasons, extraction processes, and even the companies which produce them.
Essential oils are often used in ayurveda, aromatherapy, and other forms of alternative medicine that employ natural plant or botanical extracts to support health and well-being. They should be used responsibly and in moderation, especially if someone is unfamiliar with their applications.
There are also distinctions between which essential oils may or may not be ingested, applied medicinally, applied topically, or utilized in aromatherapy. Furthermore, there are distinctions between essential oils, carrier oils, hot oils, and more. Always seek the advice of professionals when utilizing and applying essential oils in your life and products, and beware of certain oils being exposed to pets.
Fragrant or Fragrance oils are not naturally occuring and have been created from a number of chemical processes. They are created with a mix of synthetic aroma chemicals and sometimes natural ingredients like essential oils, extracts, and resins but are not 100% natural or regulated between companies. Ingredient transparency is not always enforced, and you should be extremely particular when scrutinizing the source of oils you choose and whether they are forthcoming about their ingredients.
synthetic oils have a higher liklihood of causing irritation or allergy to the skin than essential oils, but even essential oils should be applied with care.
This should be taken into consideration for anyone who suffers from allergies and/or sensitive, sensitized, combination, acneic, or dry skin.
Helpful Products:
Digital Kitchen Scale Silicone Soap Molds Refined Coconut Oil Pumpkin Spice Essential Oil Instant Coffee Crystals Coffee Essential Oil Candy Thermometers: Digital or Traditional Heat-Proof Glass Bowl Heat-Proof Plastic Mixing Bowl Stainless Steel Sauce Pan Silicone Spatulas Immersion Blender Pure Lye/ Sodium Hydroxide Gloves Goggles Protective Aprons Silicone Table Protector Mat Spritz Bottle
Pumpkin Spiced Latte ~ Small Batch Cold Process Soap~ for Hand & Body
Equipment
- 1 gallon white vinegar in case of lye burns on skin or to neutralize spills
- 1 immersion blender You can find one for less than $15 and save it strictly for soaping
- 2 candy thermometers you can get by with just one if necessary, but two is better
- 2 6-cavity silicone soap mold I recommend a soap mold with cavities for coconut soap
- 1 digital kitchen scale
- 1 glass bowl heat-proof for lye mixture
- 1 2-quart, stainless steel sauce pan to warm oil in (Not Aluminum!)
- 1 4-quart plastic mixing bowl
- 2 silicone spatulas one for lye mixture and one for oil mixture
- Goggles for eye protection
- Mask for fumes
- Well-ventilated area such as your stovetop
- Disposable gloves for hand protection
- 1 small spritz bottle for isopropyl alcohol during curing phase
Ingredients
Soap Ingredients
- 132 grams sodium hydroxide 100% pure lye
- 300 grams distilled water
- 908 grams refined coconut oil
- 1/4 cup instant coffee crystals If you choose to add more, the soap will appear darker and grainier
- 10 drops pumpkin spice pure essential oil blend NOW Essential Oils, Pumpkin Spice Oil Blend is an excellent choice
- 10 drops coffee essential oil Gya Labs Coffee Essential Oil for Aromatherapy is my first choice
During the Curing Phase
- 1/2 cup isopropyl alcohol for use during the curing phase
Instructions
STEP 1: SAFETY FIRST
- Set out all materials in advance. Place a thermometer with the lye bowl and a thermometer with the oil. Place a rubber spatula with the lye bowl and one with the oil & pan.Place an old towel, newspaper, or paper towels under the silicone soap molds. Splashing lye or the newly mixed soap mixture onto a countertop or table WILL strip the finish off of it if you're not careful.Premeasure all ingredients before beginning. Wear all necessary protection: apron, gloves, goggles, mask.Set the jug of vinegar next to the sink in case of emergency. Vinegar neutralizes the burn of lye if it comes in contact with your skin. EXERCISE CAUTION AT ALL TIMES
STEP 2: LYE MIXTURE
- In a heat-safe glass bowl, pour the sodium hydroxide (lye) carefully into the distilled water. Gently stir with the rubber spatula designated for lye solution. Stir until the lye crystals are dissolved. This bowl will get hot! Carefully monitor it until the temperature drops to 100F or 38C. If you're worried about accidentally tipping or splashing this, you can place the bowl in your kitchen sick to insure against spills. Just don't forget it is there.
STEP 3: HEATING OIL
- In your stainless steel pan, melt the coconut oil on low heat until just liquefied. Stir gently until the oil has reached but not exceeded 100F (38C).
STEP 4: COMBINING LYE AND OIL
- Be certain that you have applied all protective apparel and make sure there are no children, pets, or other possible infringements in your work area.
- When your lye solution and your melted oil have each reached 100F (38C), gently combine them in a heat-safe mixing bowl.
STEP 5: ADDING EXTRAS
- Add your desired soap additives. For this recipe, we have coffee granules for exfoliation, pumpkin spice essential oil blend, and coffee essential oil blend.Stir with the rubber spatula for 1 minute.
STEP 6: EMULSIFYING & "TRACE"
- Tracing, or soap coming to trace phase, is when the soap mixture has thickened and begins to resemble soft whipped cream or warm pudding.This pure coconut soap can sometimes emulsify somewhat quickly. If it begins to do so with simple stirring from the rubber spatula, that is fine. If it doesn't come to trace after 5 minutes just from hand-stirring, you can use an immersion blender. Gently pulse the immersion blender until the mixture thickens to trace consistency.
STEP 7: POURING
- Using a rubber spatula, gently pour soap into the cavities of your silicone mold. Smooth out or swirl in your desired pattern. *You must work quickly because once the soap has reached trace and is beginning to cool, it will begin to harden.
- Leave uncovered somewhere safe, out of direct sunlight, with plenty of air circulation.Keep in the soap molds for 48 hours or until the soap has hardened.
- NOTE- If you see a powdery-white residue building on the surface of the soap, this will not harm it- it is only oxidizing slightly. However, if you prefer a glossy sheen to your soap, then you can use a spritz bottle and apply a very light mist of isopropyl alcohol to prevent the surface from turning white.
STEP 8: CURING
- Once your bars have hardened, they can be flipped out of their molds and allowed to cure for 4+ weeks. Leave your coconut soap bars somewhere dust-free and well-ventilated, out of direct sunlight for 4 weeks. Mist with isopropyl alcohol as needed to reduce matte/powdery surface if desired.Once the soap bars are cured, they will be fully hardened and whitish in appearance. It will have a shelf-life of at least 2 years.
